Category Archives: Bars & Restaurants

Ferry Tales

I’ve taken ferry rides a few times in my life.  Both crossings of Lake Michigan.  The long ride to Isle Royale from the U.P.  A hour or so across the mouth of Puget Sound.  It’s always a fun departure from the normal modes of transport.

For the last month and a half, my life has revolved around ferry schedules as we move from island to island via the Alaska Marine Highway.  The voyages all have stupendous scenery as the ships travel across wide sounds and through narrow channels.  Sometimes the land is so close it looks like you could jump to the shore from the boat.  Other times, fog and rain make it impossible to tell what direction you are going.

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There’s always plenty of wildlife to see.  Lots of wading birds, water fowl, terns, gulls, eagles… Every so often you catch a glimpse of an otter or a seal.  Whale sightings are virtually guaranteed in the summer.  A half hour out of Juneau on one trip, an armada of sightseeing boats drew my attention and soon the water’s surface erupted from the exhale of one of Earth’s largest animals.  With the boat and the people in the background, you start to get a sense of how huge a whale really is.

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The Alaska Marine Highway was set up not long after statehood as a way to provide regular, affordable service between the communities scattered among the archipelago of islands in southeast Alaska.  Many of the ships are the same ones that debuted along with the system.  They’ve got big ships to make the long hauls up and down the coast, smaller ships to make daily runs between closer towns and a couple fast ones for trips between more populous cities.  All of them are named after glaciers in Alaska.

This one is the M/V LeConte and it was actually built in Wisconsin; Sturgeon Bay to be specific.

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Alaska is truly an international travel destination.  People come from all over the world to see the fjords, mountains, wildlife and glaciers and absorb the local culture.  This part of America is actually closer to places in Europe than it is places in the United States as the crow (or the Airbus) flies.  It’s a much shorter trip to Alaska from Hamburg or Oslo than it is from Atlanta or Miami.  One evening, I shared the ferry’s lounge (bar) with half a dozen Germans, two French speakers and an Aussie.  It was rather funny watching that Aussie chat up a grad student from Montana on her way to gather data on bears for the summer.

Any ferry ride of at least a couple hours will have food available.  Comes in handy when you need to catch an early ferry and couldn’t stop for a bite beforehand.  Only the largest of the ferries have a dedicated lounge with a full bar.  They do a good job of stocking local brews from Juneau.  The decor can be quite “vintage”.  The best example being the bar on the M/V Columbia.

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Funky.

The Tourists

Ketchikan often reminds me of some of the major vacation towns in northern Wisconsin.  Similar to Minocqua, Hayward, Eagle River or my own home town, it started life as a base of operations for extraction industries; timber and fisheries.  But as time passed and those resources were over-exploited and then closely regulated, a wholesale shift occurred toward tourism.  The only differences being how long ago it happened and how the tourist get there.  The transition to a tourism based economy happened within my lifetime.  And instead of the tourists streaming up Highway 51, the tourists pour off of the 2-4 cruise ships that are docked here at any given time over the summer.

If you have ever been on a cruise ship anywhere in the world, you have an idea of the size of the ones that park themselves bow-to-stern here in Ketchikan.  The Tongass Narrows (the waterway between Ketchikan and its neighboring island) are no wider than the Mississippi River is in the upper Midwest so these large ships are even more impressive in this context.

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Among the locals I’ve talked to, there is a bit of nostalgia for days of Ketchikan as a major fishing port and lumber town.  But at the same time, they cannot deny the immense and vital revenue stream that comes with these cruise ships.  It’s basically the reason this town exists nowadays.  Still there’s always a bit of melancholy about a place that now has to cater to those with disposable income.  It’s the downside to living in a beautiful place.  Other people want to come and gawk at it, take pictures of its quaintness, pick up a T-shirt and an embossed shot glass as proof that they once visited someplace cool.  It’s a balance between the pride such attention fosters and the resentment of dealing with people who have expectations about a place based on a brochure or a website.  You’ll have that any where tourists congregate.

There is a townie bar near where I am staying and I have had the opportunity to get some older dudes to start talking about this and that.  It’s one of the more interesting aspects of traveling so much.  You invariably get to talking to some local about whatever if you post up at the right bar.  I feel like people open up a little more about their town when you tell them you’re there for work instead of leisure.  There is less obligation to impress and you get more straight talk about what’s good and what’s bad.

Illinois Dells

Who’d have thought?  Despite all the Illinois license plates in Wisconsin Dells, turns out they have a “Dells” of their own.  I only saw one water park, however.

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Matthessian State Park in Oglesby; the Vermillion River cuts deep into sandstone bedrock on its way to joining the Illinois River just upstream from an impressive, valley-spanning bridge on I-39.  It is quite literally the only interesting terrain anywhere on I-39 in Illinois.  Dozens of miles of flat vistas of corn and soybeans flank this one imposing place making its contrast with its surroundings all the more outstanding.

I stocked up on cupcakes from a place in nearby North Utica and had a very agreeable dinner at an inconspicuous bar and grill in downtown Oglesby called M.J.’s.  Shabby on the outside, modern and welcoming on the inside.  A framed portrait of Brian Urlacher and Aaron Rodgers staring each other down during the 2011 NFC Championship game graces the back bar:

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(photo credit-http://www.tddaily.com/static/uploads/2013/05/Aaron+Rodgers+Brian+Urlacher+2011+NFC+Championship+xIUEkRI7xDwl.jpg)

No partisan rhetoric, just two outstanding athletes exchanging professional pleasantries between plays.  And I saw it mounted on the wall in a bar in the heart of Bear Country.  Now that’s some ‘love of the game’ type stuff right there.  It’s like symbolism and junk.

-reporting from Exit 54 in Oglesby, Illinois